Traditional Milanese Saffron Risotto

This traditional risotto is comfort in a bowl - with bright saffron and loads of Parmesan cheese. An authentic Italian recipe, perfect for the colder months.

I am continuing my series on Italian food through the regions and today we are in Lombardy, with risotto allo zafferano (saffron risotto). If you think you don't know Lombardy, think again - its capital is the ever so fashionable Milan. The food in Lombardy is quite different from the pasta, pizza and fish we associate with Italy. Partly because of its geographical location, well into Northern Italy and far from the sea, and partly because of its history, crossing paths with Nordic and Germanic people, Milanese food is quite harty, uses more butter than olive oil and is definitely quite comforting.

Risotto allo zafferano is one the region's most beloved dishes. The use of a spice, and an expensive one too, like saffron is quite unusual in Italian cooking. The history of this dish goes back to the 16th century, when Flemish artists were working on Milan's duomo. They brought with them saffron, and as the legend goes, the spice was used in a risotto served at a wedding's banquet - and clearly took off from there!

Like for many classics, there are several versions of risotto allo zafferano. A lot of people nowadays will actually use olive oil to sautee the onion, but I used a recipe given to me by a Milanese family friend, who was adamant no oil should be used - so I did what every reasonable person who has just come into possession of a prized recipe would do: I didn't use any oil.

How to make the best traditional saffron risotto

• Bloom your saffron: before you do anything else, add your saffron to a small bowl or espresso cup and cover with about 50ml water. Set aside, the longer it soaks, the more it will infuse the water.

• Prep your stock: boil some water and crumble in a good-quality vegetable stock cube.

• Sautee your onion in butter: following the strict Milanese tradition, no olive oil shall be used in this recipe.

• Set some time aside: all good things happen to those who wait - risotto rice takes a while to cook, so be prepared to be stirring your risotto for a good 30-35 mins, depending on the rice you use.

• Use good risotto rice: arborio or carnaroli are normally my go to.

• Finish with a generous helping of butter and Parmesan: at the end, take the risotto off the heat and start the process known as 'mantecazione', where you add butter and Parmesan and mix until melted, to give your risotto its signature velvety, creamy finish.

Ingredients (serves 2)

200g risotto rice (arborio or carnaroli are best)

1 tsp saffron

1 vegetable stock cube

1 small brown onion

50g butter + more to sautee the onion

80g Parmesan cheese

Method:

1. Add the saffron to a small bowl or cup and cover with 50ml water. Set aside to infuse. In the meantime, crumble the stock powder in 800ml boiling water and stir to combine.

2. Thinly slice the onion, then add to a large saucepan with about 1 or 2 tbsp butter. Sautee on medium heat for 3-4 mins, until softened and traslucent. Add more butter if needed.

3. Add the rice to the saucepan and mix in with the onion. Toast on medium heat for about a minute. Start adding a bit of the stock to the saucepan (about 100ml or so). Keep cooking the rice, stirring every few seconds, to prevent it from sticking to the pan.

4. Repeat this every time the stock gets fully absorbed by the rice. After 20 / 25 mins or so, you should have run out of stock. Taste the rice and see if it's still quite raw or almost cooked. Add more hot water accordingly, continuing to stir, until cooked to your preference (this will vary according to what rice you used).

5. When the rice is almost cooked, remove the saffron from the water, and add the infused water to the risotto. Mix to combine and cook for another couple minutes, to absorb the liquid.

6. Taste the risotto and season as needed, then remove from the heat. Add 80g grated Parmesan and 50g butter, then mix until melted.

7. Serve the risotto into bowls and grate over more Parmesan cheese if desired.